“Welcome to the desert,” Alvaro Castejón, one half of the design duo behind Loris Azzaro, said backstage before the show. A dry terrain — with its beige and midnight-blue hues — served as inspiration for the label’s spring couture collection, which featured a series of novel techniques. Castejón and co-creative director Arnaud Maillard experimented with silicon appliqués to mimic desert flowers and even shoved a dress in the oven: “It came out burnt — three times,” Maillard said of a lean tulle gown adorned with golden leaves that meandered around the model’s body.
Elsewhere, the house’s chain motif was repurposed on ethnic tops and scarves or as ornamental seams that ran down luscious djellaba-shaped robes. A sense of lightness and airiness prevailed, meaning that some of the looks featuring transparencies and cutouts were unnecessarily revealing. The best exits relied on the charms of their lavish volumes, such as starkly draped Berber pants with a chain scarf-top, covered by a long cape.