For her second outing since returning to the official couture schedule, Stéphanie Coudert stuck with an Oriental vibe. She titled the collection “Qohr,” which means pearl, essence or spirit in the ancient Persian language.
Coudert remembered her mother, of Iraqi origin, traveling through the Jordanian desert in an orange dress. That vibrant color was used for the finely crafted crepe dresses that opened the show, constructed using the designer’s signature ladder-stitch embroidery seams. She added subtle volumes via asymmetrical draping or by delicately wrapping the model’s body, proving that Coudert can produce some decent couture daywear.
Hand-painted motifs on skirts, dresses and tops — depicting abstract calligraphy, peacock feathers or Impressionist dahlia flowers — distracted from the designer’s pure lines and controlled constructions. It would be nice to see Coudert take off for some younger and trendier territory.