Guests making their way to the Zuhair Murad couture show had to ditch their vehicles a block from the venue and negotiate a crowd of railway workers, who had gathered nearby to protest against a reform of their sector. The scene made for a surreal prelude to Murad’s aquatic-themed display, which drew Rose McGowan and a gaggle of French starlets to the basement of the Palais de Tokyo art museum.
The opening lineup included a translucent sheath dress dripping with crystals, sequins and raindrop-sized cabochons. A Vegas showgirl bodysuit trimmed with a bouncing bead fringe brought to mind Jennifer Lopez, who regularly wears the Lebanese couturier’s designs — most recently to the Golden Globes.
Silver sequins sparkled like light on water on a pale blue strapless gown with a Watteau train, while crystals drifted in clusters on a long silk tulle dress with short sleeves. Working a watery palette ranging from pastel pink and yellow to silver and bronze, Murad veered between showmanship and restraint.
Among the false notes was a pink ball gown that paired a barely there sleeveless bodice with a skirt made of yards of tulle that shimmered like mother-of-pearl. His quieter looks were among the finest — including a sheer column dress in vintage-feel bronze lace with a waterfall cape. And as the bride emerged, Murad’s sleek catwalk reflected her mirror image as clearly as a lake.