Alexandre Vauthier really gets his customer, plying fashions with an urban sex appeal that is germane to Parisian nightlife dressing. “It’s like a postcard of the Paris woman, and this season, we really threw in all the codes into the equation — the red lipstick, the oversize tuxedo,” he said backstage.
There was a striking presence of red but never on models’ lips. Instead, the color exploded on a patent leather jumpsuit boasting maxi zip pockets, while oversize silhouettes skewed military through Vauthier’s handsome take on vintage École Polytechnique uniforms, which Parisian girls like to pirate from their boyfriends’ wardrobes, he noted. They were beautifully cut, and also came in a sleeveless version for a sassier, more contemporary look, confirming Vauthier’s reputation as a precision tailor.
This collection felt lighter than usual, and less constraining. The dresses didn’t always hug the body, seducing instead with a bare shoulder, a leg-revealing cut or via the intricate construction, with Vauthier focusing on sensual, hand-laid pleats done in collaboration with specialty atelier Lognon.