Ronald van der Kemp considers building a collection around a theme an outdated concept. Instead, he proposes a seasonless, somewhat messy wardrobe mixed from such contrasting items as a rubberized raincoat in bright yellow next and a black evening robe in the style of a tailcoat. “Pick what you like,” the line seemed to shout, not pretending to fit into any mold.
Shapes took a backseat to the magnificent stock of leftover couture swatches and vintage materials, mostly from the Seventies and Eighties, which Van der Kemp repurposes in his signature, off-kilter way.
Among the highlights was a historic broderie anglaise reworked with 3-D flowers on a balloon-sleeved blouse. The colorful front of a cropped and cinched, fur-sleeve jacket was stitched together from scraps of contrasting materials, was somewhat reminiscent of a DYI tweed.
No doubt, the collection was not for every woman, but Van der Kemp is growing his following. Net-a-porter just ordered a selection of the limited-edition demi-couture pieces for spring.