Stéphane Rolland staged his couture show old-school style. The designer assigned each look a name and number, announced by an MC as the models sashayed through the couturier’s private salon on Avenue George V: “Number 1. La Damnation de Faust. Black silk crepe jumpsuit and pleated organza sleeves…” and so on.
Yes, Rolland drew inspiration from the opera and the ballet, the first exit co-opting the title of Hector Berlioz’ famous work. And yes, the silhouettes at times assumed theatrical proportions, as seen on a maxi tutu gown or a wildly pleated skirt rendered in multiple layers of lipstick red. But overall, the designer toned the drama down a notch versus previous seasons. A bare-back jumpsuit with a long trail was a humble and modern compared to Rolland’s habitual knack for XXL-embellishments and walking sculptures.
Novelty came via a collaboration with textile designer Marta Mantovani, who thought up a jagged, 3-D textured suede fabric encrusted with little crystals. It skewed futuristic, an interesting foil to the collection’s luscious silk and tulle bottoms.