The party was on at Ulyana Sergeenko’s couture show — a costume party, held at the Hotel de la Salle, which undoubtedly has seen many of the kind in its colorful past.
Backstage, the designer’s mood board painted an unlikely picture: 19th-century Russian nobles versus Madonna’s “Like a Virgin” video. Taking cues from the excessive end of the Russian Empire, known for its opulent balls, carnivals and gypsy entertainment on the one hand, and the last decade of the Soviet Union, abound with Eighties glitter and fun yet questionable style choices, on the other, Sergeenko’s collection spread lavish taste like wildfire.
Ruffles were a major theme, used on gypsy skirts and boisterous coatdresses. Some were made of hand-knitted lace (a rare and labor-intensive technique these days), in an upbeat palette of lemon, mint and lavender. Yards of organza and taffeta spilled into candy-colored princess dresses, while an Eighties jumpsuit with turn-of-the century puff-sleeves gathered silk like bees gather honey.
Embellishments were top-shelf: one silk overcoat featured medallions hand-painted by a conservator of the Hermitage.
Despite the historical references, the collection telegraphed an irreverent, youthful flair.