Zuhair Murad has been working overtime since designing Sofia Vergara’s wedding gown, which prompted dozens of orders for similar models. The designer has famously dressed everyone from Kristen Stewart to Jennifer Lopez, but his spring couture collection appeared to be aimed at his noncelebrity customers.
Edging away from the racy creations that have earned him a top spot on the red carpet, he opted for a romantic mood with outfits inspired by the caged underpinnings of historical gowns. Dresses incorporated panniers, corset boning and laces, with geometric grids also appearing as glittering surface embellishment.
Murad worked lampshade skirts into flirty cocktail dresses and grand evening gowns, all lavishly embroidered to evoke garden lattices and flowers. But with a palette dominated by powdery pastels in sugared almond shades, the effect was often cloyingly sentimental.
Occasionally he hit the sweet spot between whimsical and seductive, as in a flowing greige chiffon gown with an embroidered top and matching cape sparkling with silver crystals.