Don’t expect any ivory tower attitude from Alexandre Vauthier. The designer, for his debut show in the Grand Palais, took his scissors to the tradition’s “more ceremonial side — the kilometers of fabric and enormous volumes of the Golden Age of couture,” to present what he termed as a “less sacred, more approachable spin.”
Haute gestures were there but used to elevate Vauthier’s signature sporty, ultra sexy bases. Vauthier’s angular leather minis had sprouted puffy mutton sleeves, for instance. Voluminous taffeta tops with sweeping trains were broken by elements like denim shorts with Swarovski crystal belts, giving a high-low spin.
Vauthier does like to have a clear cohesiveness within each of his collections. A jagged, Eighties-infused motif in red, white, black and blue served as the flag, splashed on everything from the multimedia sweater dresses to a mini in allover crystal embroidery. The collection’s palette — red, white, blue, silver and black — was also picked up in the threads of the tailored tweed elements.
Black worked best for showcasing the designer’s thing for asymmetry and angular forms, especially the minimalist black dress fixed with satin ribbons, which was super-elegant.