With all those veils and many meters of tulle and lace, Alexis Mabille’s increased focus on bridal, having dedicated his 34 Galerie Vivienne store to the category since mid-December, seemed to be wielding its influence here.
Or maybe just the idea of girls playing dress-up. A “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes” theme wove through, with among leitmotifs a crystal tiara that morphed into belts and embellishments on the arms and bustiers of jewel-tone gowns.
The opening evening look, combining a pretty black bustier top in an oversize ruffle and high-split pants, was misleadingly restrained. The ruffles and colors — which spanned pastels, neons and unexpected mixes like turquoise and purple — got bigger and bolder, as silhouettes meandered between formal gowns, lingerie-inspired looks and princess dresses, like a lemon sherbet number dusted with crystals.
There were some nice moments, such as the yellow silk handkerchief dress edged with geometric black lines, and the delicate handiwork was impressive, especially on a voluminous, sheer overlay in illusion tulle striped with bands of colored satin, worn over a bodysuit.
But the collection’s obsession with making it down the aisle — whether for rocks or romance — felt out of sync with the times.