Rock, romance and a soupcon of fetishism, inspired by…the porcelain parlor of Queen Maria Amalia of Saxony in the Capodimonte Museum in Naples. Who’da guessed it?
This was a story of extremes told through lashings of Baroque flourishes, crystals and lace — and a whole lot of handiwork.
Lace flourishes based on the room’s elaborate Baroque moldings were used as embellishments and trims on everything from gowns to biker jackets, or reinterpreted as crystal face masks with erotic undertones. They came peppered with pastel porcelain roses made by hand, one by one, in a Neapolitan atelier.
Organic, embroidered formations following the peak shoulders of a slim tuxedo jacket nodded to Naples coral, with another ornate jacket style mimicking the form of a butterfly’s wings.
Quieter moments from the collection’s sheer gowns — a house signature — included a white lace style that erupted in gentle white ruffles. Crystal-encrusted rose thorns climbed around other looks.
Francesco Scognamiglio also used a pretty digital print of vintage blooms — lifted from one of the museum’s archive tomes — to decorate the top of a sheer tulle gown. The strategically placed appliqués provided the only coverage, a look that may be perceived as a little risqué by some. But then again, Francesco Scognamiglio is not a house for couture wallflowers.