Design duo Galia Lahav and Sharon Sever were visibly moved as they took their bow at the end of their first Paris couture show. Indeed, backstage before the show, Sever described being accepted as a guest member on the couture calendar as the culmination of three decades of work for the Tel Aviv, Israel-based label, which is principally known for its bridal designs.
Inspired by the Victorian era in general and more specifically by a little-known designer called Jean-Marjorie Lacroix, who challenged the sartorial stereotypes of the time, Sever explained.
The designers sent out an array of gowns that combined the transparency of tulle fabrics, lace — some of it antique — guipure and sheer stretch fabrics with a multitude of embellishments and surface finishes.
Elaborate, extralong trains were morphed with the corsets of gowns decked with embroideries and glittering with beads and there were high collars, puff sleeves, sweetheart necklines, buttoned backs, peplums and pussy bow details aplenty, contrasting with the overtly sexy allure of their deep V necklines and sheer backs.
The use of velvet on certain designs added a different richness, as on a burgundy draped mermaid dress with its tulle point d’esprit bodice and short cape, or an off-the-shoulder corset and slim pants worn with a full tulle appliquéd skirt.
A textured lavender and silver brocade was combined with cappuccino-colored tulle embroidered with a graphic constellation of gems on one striking pencil dress. Silicone-embossed bodysuits worn under sheer gowns or a cross between stockings and leggings in black lace gave a hint of a modern twist to this ultra-glamorous, sexy wardrobe.