“A jolt of wrought-out glamor,” was the phrase from the show notes that best described Redemption’s first couture offering. The label’s creative director, Gabriele “Bebe” Moratti, certainly offered that, mixing period references from Stanley Kubrick’s “Barry Lyndon,” punk rock tones and a heavy dose of rococo glitz.
It was very in-your-face — perhaps as Moratti intended, as the label seeks to gain visibility.
Military details were worked in outsized embroidered panels on the front of one military-inspired jacket, and skin-tight leather pants were punctuated with gold and ruby-colored buttons, a repeat motif stamped on much of the collection.
Bright yellow, red and purple satins and black tulle were draped and sculpted liberally into architectural shapes that were somewhat incongruous, more reminiscent of the power-dressing of the Eighties, with the addition of glittering geometric frames to support the enlarged shoulders of certain designs or black and gold Lurex metallic puffball sleeves.
Highlights included a navy ensemble with satin skirt and bustle and a matching vintage-style transparent blouse flecked with gold.
Tiny miniskirts and leather biker jackets were combined with trailing bustles, hammering home the culture clash of the centuries. Much of it was Redemption’s register — check high-end fabrics, elaborate embellishments and construction, military references and a rock spirit — glammed up to the max.
“The clash is the essence of the contemporary world,” said the show notes. But there was just a little too much of it going on here.