Ronald van der Kemp said he was inspired by Dadaism for his RVDK label’s fifth demi-couture collection. The resulting lineup of vamped-up, whimsical looks had a strong Eighties bent — with puff sleeves and ruffles galore — but was ultimately a mixed bag of references from Surrealism to speakeasies.
The Amsterdam-based designer — who sources his creations by hunting for remnants of existing fabrics (new or vintage) — this season brought in plaids, spots, furs and floral prints, as well as patchwork quilting and lace. Goat hair details created a spiky halo around an ocelot-printed calfskin top. Swirls of yellow taffeta festooned from a skirt that looked rather like a bowl of Kraft macaroni, while a fisherman’s sweater made from patching together different weaves represented a comparatively subtle look.
Though van der Kemp’s creations are certainly not for wallflowers, the designer has won a certain following with his flamboyant creations. Justin Bieber has been spotted wearing a pair of the brand’s patchwork camo trousers, which are made combining uniforms from different armies. Those pants and several eveningwear looks are among the limited-edition items van der Kemp recently shipped to Bergdorf Goodman, which will stock the brand for the first time this spring.