Dutch-Vietnamese designer Xuan-Thu Nguyen perhaps underestimated the level of interest her debut show as a guest member of the couture calendar would have. Attendees were crushed on the landing and down the stairs waiting to be allowed, a handful at a time, to visit her installation-performance hybrid in three tiny rooms that were so packed it was difficult to get a proper look at the clothes themselves.

Nguyen described her collection, crafted from a variety of silks with touches of leather in a color palette of bright pastels, ivory, gray and black, as being inspired by her personal experiences, without going into specifics.

Several of her largely unadorned designs played with an abundance of ruffles in asymmetric forms, while heavier reinforced silk items included a knee-length ivory coat with embroidered details and large fabric-covered buttons that gave it the look of an elevated pajama jacket.

Silk dropped-waist pants were gathered at the ankle, paired with a Victorian-style blouse and cinched with a wide leather belt, while a simple maxidress was teamed with an asymmetric stiffened silk corset.

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