Italian designer Sofia Crociani continued her eco-couture journey for spring 2019. Always inspired by natural phenomenons, she looked to the gradual passage from night to dawn to find the natural color palette for her ethereal gowns.

“That moment during the night gives you the impression that you are part of the universe,” said Crociani, who cites naturalist poet Lucretius as one of her guides for this collection. “It reminds us that we have to stay engaged in the world around us, otherwise it will disappear.”

Jet black transitioned to fiery sunrise hues, before making way for lighter tones evoking the dawn of a new day. Natural materials such as raw silk and Japanese hemp were twisted into flowing silhouettes, most of which were made of just one piece of fabric, the hems left unfinished.

A new piece was added to the designer’s signature silhouettes of vertical cuts and ballerina dresses this season: a couture sweatshirt in satin duchesse, created as both a top and a minidress, with vintage jewels applied on the neckline and shoulder. These were sourced via plumassier Erik Halley, a close collaborator of the brand, who found them in his archives.

Halley worked his magic on a bunch of albino peacock feathers, given to the designer by one of her friends. “The albino peacock only loses its feathers once a year, so only one dress can be made at a time,” Crocianis said. The pristine feathers were a magical addition to a lightweight black silk skirt. Alongside a rosebud-like bustier dress, representing the slow opening of flowers at dawn, it was one of the standout pieces.

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