This was Parisian right down to the soundtrack — classics by Françoise Hardy. There were also winks to the Sixties throughout the collection, including sandals with pearl ankle straps, footwear designer’s Amina Muaddi’s nod to Coco Chanel.
Vauthier continued his homage to the handiwork of specialty ateliers. Among the marvels were a cropped jacket entirely hand embroidered, with gold-plated plissé leather details on a bed of sequins, and a textured bustier micro minidress covered in ivory flowers crafted in the Lemarié ateliers, their tips dipped in black ink.
In the mix, with the likes of Emmanuelle Seigner, Isabelle Adjani and Céline Dion looking on, was a classic white pantsuit and a great belted coat in recycled lynx from the Sixties, “because I can’t use faux fur for couture, also because it is petrol based.”
There was a lot of sparkle, including an emerald-green dress covered in crystals, with matching boots, which felt a bit out of sync with the rest of the theme, and lashings of Vauthier’s signature voluminous Eighties flounces, including in a leopard print.
Playing with classic couture codes, with nods to Yves Saint Laurent and poufy skirts à la Christian Lacroix, Vauthier unleashed only a sprinkling of his signature disco elements. The collection was less risky and overtly sexy than seasons past, and all for the better for it.