Maxime Simoëns delivered a shimmering couture collection for spring replete with a Studio 54 theme. To wit, guests at the show’s Palais de Tokyo venue passed under a disco ball that cast dots of light throughout the entryway.
Backstage before the display, the artistic director explained that the club’s exuberant, sparkly spirit was in sync with that of Loris Azzaro and his fashion DNA.
“I’ve been really influenced by Grace Jones,” said Simoëns, naming also Bianca Jagger, Cher and Diana Ross as muses for this spring collection.
Dresses are Simoëns’ signature, and here he maxed out, including pencil and bustier looks, plus draped and pleated models, many of which were spangled with sequins.
The designer deftly added volume to some of the silhouettes, such as suit jackets, sometimes adding Eighties-era bows, and cutting plunging necklines. He remained faithful to the house’s color codes, like black, burgundy and dark blue, working with materials including silk, muslin, jacquard, velvet and leather.
Everyone wants to stand out on the dance floor, but at times there was a bit too much going on with the busy mixes in this eclectic range for the runway.
Among standouts was a shimmering, flowing caftan in black and green with sequins, a long, diaphanous white dress with a deep V-neck and vertical rows of metallic studs.