Xuan-Thu Nguyen this season opted for a presentation format, showcasing a group of all-black silk-based looks on mannequins in the Lexus showroom in Paris, with dry ice evoking “a car driving away in a cloud of smoke.”

It was nice to get a close-up of the details, like the diagonal seams on the pocket of a charming coat dotted with romantic black silk bows down its front, or an off-center back seam on a dress. The designer is exploring a cleaner, purer direction.

There were still plenty of ruffles in the ultrafeminine collection, however, with one look contrasting an oversized flounce for the top with a skirt in dense silk ruffles. There were also pleated shirtdresses and a diaphanous black silk bustier dress with a cloud of flounces accumulating at the front.

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