The image of the sun setting over the sea inspired designer Sofia Crociani to create her color palette for her spring collection. One of her raw silk dresses, one-shouldered and midriff-baring, was dyed in an “oily purple, the color of the sea at twilight,” she explained.

The hues in her collection were pretty astonishing. They went from metallic blue on a halterneck ballgown to a fiery magenta on a velvet bustier dress, worn with a single feather shoulder pad and Doc Martens. Crociani played with volumes: some of her evening gowns spread out wide on the runway, like a dress with ruched shoulders made of a gradient fabric that changes color every 20 meters — nearly 66 feet — or a “jellyfish” dress with 400 meters of ruched ribbons, hand-cut and individually dyed, trailing down the model’s legs.

Raw hems, Aelis’ signature, can be tricky business: There is a fine line between natural-looking and scruffy. On some garments, like a one-shoulder maroon caftan, the hems looked simply unfinished. On others, like the train of a raw silk pink and white gown, they added to the brand’s general unfussy take on couture. A tulle dress looked scribbled on, and it actually was: the piece was the result of a project by artist S. Weissenburger and a group of children, and will be auctioned in a bid to help preserve oceans, giving a solid reason to its unkempt air.

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