Design duo Nana Aganovich and Brooke Taylor took onlookers back to their surreal, period universe with a collection that took “In Praise of Shadows,” an essay on Japanese aesthetics by Jun’ichiro Tanizaki, as its starting point. The only sound was the tinkling bell of the carpenter’s workshop opening as the models entered the room, an ethereal presence with their veiled faces.
The silhouettes in satin and organza all started from the same tailored dress base — cinched waist, structured shoulders, long, A-line skirt — treated and over-layered in a plethora of different ways in a largely black and white color palette, with touches of blood red, and adorned with knotted rope details, pearls and chandelier crystals.
Hand-dying created a subtle marbled effect on the fabric of certain designs, like a red dress that could have been picked out of the dystopian world of “The Handmaid’s Tale.”
Further embellishment came in the form of fil coupé embroideries in the shape of a bird, handpainted roses and shadow puppet-like hands.
WWD Critique: Aganovich and Taylor’s aim is to provoke an emotional response, rather than mine a specific theme, they explained backstage. Their theatrical presentation — and the silence they staged it against — provided a perfect backdrop to admire and reflect upon fashion as an art form.