With his first runway show as a guest member of the couture calendar, Rahul Mishra took his inspiration from underwater landscapes and tropical flora, marked by their contrast with the polluted landscape of New Delhi. In his Rousseau-like tableaux, fern-like fronds of foliage undulated, first in shades of off-white, before making way for a palette in myriad shades. The leaves provided an original alternative to feathers on the hems of gowns and appeared like teaming coral reefs in vivid shades of yellow and pink. Alongside his dresses z — in long and voluminous shapes or as highly embellished shifts — long tailored coats were worked in allover embroideries, depicting the varying shades of the sky against the wildlife of the Himalayan foothills in a canvas of sequins or beads.

WWD Critique: Mishra’s breathtaking 3-D embroideries appeared to come alive, taken to new proportions as if growing out of his luxuriant gowns. With his focus on artfully pushing ancestral craft techniques in new directions, his place on the couture landscape is merited.

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