Ronald van der Kemp imbued his upcycled collection with a full-on dose of glamour this season, taking guests back to Le Palace nightclub in its Eighties heyday, peopled with personalities like Jean Paul Gaultier and Grace Jones. An asymmetric bustier gown had a full-length lambskin glove sleeve, while a draped plissé dress with a lace bodice was designed to look like a Roman statue. Handmade appliqué flowers were done in 3-D on a shorter gown, while the designer’s take on the fur coat was knotted by hand from scraps of black and gold fabric by Carpet for Life, an organization working with women in Morocco using ancestral techniques.

WWD Critique: Van der Kemp’s focus on tailoring and a comparatively cleaner aesthetic this season made for a fresh perspective on stylized glam.

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