Ulyana Sergeenko’s collection for the ultimate jet-setting party girl took her away from the overt folklore references she has been wont to channel in the past. The glitzy, saccharine-infused lineup — presented in the salons of the American Center for Art and Culture, Mona Bismarck’s former home and inspired by the renowned socialite and philanthropist — had an intentional air of fancy dress. There were glittering cats’ heads peeping out of bodices or transformed into elaborate stoles, while bills in an imaginary currency formed the organza ruffles of capes and trains on a cast that included Dita Von Teese.

WWD Critique: While the theme of the collection and its presentation verged on pastiche, the craftsmanship evident in certain designs — including a bodice featuring intricate embroideries that took six people a month and a half to make and the colorful silk gowns with their poetic floral embroideries — merited the lavish celebration.

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