Minus the “Dress by” moniker — Julie de Libran expanded her lineup for spring, offering a more complete wardrobe proposition and partnered with storied Parisian fabric makers, using their deadstock.
In a Zoom preview, the designer said she had realized how lucky she was to be in Paris during lockdown, and that had driven her to forge such collaborations in celebration of French craftsmanship. Her video, shot by Sonia Sieff in de Libran’s home and around the city with model Camille Rowe, reflected that Paris girl lifestyle.
With Chanel-owned lingerie maker Erès, she crafted lace leggings, crop tops and bodysuits from leftover lace made in workshops that have since closed down, adding to the rarity factor. These were used to create a barely there second skin that was layered under a range of dresses and separates, adding an updated boudoir style to the lineup — ideal for when staying in is the new going out.
For the girly girl, there was a core of fluid dresses and top-and-skirt combos in printed silks, dressing gown-like wrap dresses with flared sleeves — in black velvet or a floral jacquard silk — and allover silver sequined shifts for more occasional wear.
With bespoke shirtmaker Charvet, the designer partnered to craft striped shirtdresses, a button-fronted sun dress and a cropped jacket with covered buttons, adding a crisp, fresh touch.
This androgynous feel was reiterated by way of double-breasted jacket dresses, offered in check fabrics or double-faced blue cashmere. These were designed to be worn as super-short minidresses, or open over a shirtdress and those lace leggings, for example, for a more casual style.
To complete the look, there were jewelry pieces made by Goossens, also owned by Chanel, in vermeil and set with semi-precious stones that de Libran repurposed from pieces she no longer wears in her personal collection. Gathered on a trip to India, the stones were a fitting addition to her sustainably minded collection.