Elie Saab was bursting with his signature brights, putting his mood of optimism on display at the Carreau du Temple with a collection inspired by the Garden of Eden, or at least the Mediterranean, with gowns in bougainvillea pinks and orchid purples. As if in party mode, he pumped up the volume on his signature gowns.
The Lebanese designer opened with strong capes that set the tone for the collection. Floral motifs appeared as subtle cascades of gentle buds on long gowns, overtly in large appliqués on a variety of lengths. As always, the hand embroidery was exquisite, but on leaf prints it lacked clarity from afar. Several looks were topped with cool crystal cage masks, adding an air of mystery — or perhaps protection — atop princess gowns.
The swoosh of a silver and pink beaded minidress was audible and delightful, and had a power shoulder that added a much needed bit of edge to the lineup. The best looks were absolute showstoppers in satin: statement turns in fuchsia, plum and chartreuse with floral flourishes at the neck and shoulder. Hints of Valentino to be sure, but dramatic and romantic nonetheless.
Big, bold numbers are Saab’s stomping ground — those attention-grabbing gowns that make an impression on the red carpet — and there was no shortage of them in this collection.
His finale bride was certainly a dramatic moment for the hushed crowd, but perhaps Saab should rethink his delicate footwear, as multiple models had visible trouble on the runway.