Alexandre Vauthier always embraces unabashed glamour, and this season he carried forth his vision with confrontationally sharp shoulders, gigantic faux furs, and everything sparkle.
The show opened with strong black looks, including an oversized faux fur hoodie, sequined bomber and a suit sharply cinched at the waist. Strategically cut-out gowns bared the belly but were balanced with high collars, while other looks included mirror-shard gowns that were slashed so high on the backside they left little to the imagination. One could make a very memorable exit.
A tulip skirt upturned to show a peek-a-boo sequin lining was cleverly paired with matching boots. Pops of color came in bright footwear, before moving into brighter shades of fluorescent green, pink and yellow in all their ’80s glory. The sea of black was punctuated by a color parade; tulle micro-minis came in a succession of colorful clouds, while sequined, hooded jumpsuits recalled Grace Jones. Vauthier called it “future new wave.” The sunglasses added an air of anonymity for the coolest chicks in town.
Post-pandemic, the world has changed, said Vauthier backstage. “It’s a little bit more compartmentalized,” he said. “But it’s in the darker moments you need to be the most hopeful. There are two possibilities — to stop and sleep or to challenge yourself, and I think the second option is better.”
So bring on the bright faux fur (he’s eager to clarify) to uplift the fashion mood.
He’s recently had red carpet coups with Cate Blanchett, Janelle Monáe and Kate Hudson. While he wouldn’t spill on any upcoming awards-season work, these looks are bound to make the stylists’ picks.