They say that when one door closes, another opens. Soon, the house of Gianfranco Ferré will leave its striking headquarters on Milan’s Via Pontaccio — where its runway shows are staged — severing another link to the label’s late founder. There is some uncertainty about the beleaguered company’s next chapter, a notion still unresolved from a creative standpoint with the spring collection. 

Drawing their inspiration from Guy Bourdin’s provocative photography, designers Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron honed in on architectural draping and cuts with several floor-length silhouettes. Many were constructed with a heavy hand, as if the designers felt the need to show off their tailoring techniques. A graphic bandeau top in python and a black fabric, for instance, was shown with a matching long skirt with exaggerated side pockets, while the bottom of a dress was cut into a pant leg on one side and a skirt on the other.

The simpler designs — a long white dress cinched at the waist with a metallic leaf belt — looked elegant. Yet the overall effect felt stiff and unlike a spring collection. Maybe a new home will inspire them to try a fresh approach.

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