The two subjects of Reed Krakoff’s spring show were sex and Helmut Lang. The former was rendered in lingerielike layerings of leather with blushes and sheer browns that brought to mind panty hose. If it lacked for any sense of subtlety, it put the collection in one of the season’s big conversations. As for Lang — even if it’s time to declare his impact part of fashion’s public domain like the Halstons and Chanels of the world — Krakoff’s references were a bit literal. The original doesn’t seem so long ago.

Still, the lineup was not without its virtues. Slips and liquid sheaths were elegant and provocative with a sporty side in technical silks and touches of leather. Two vests, one tan, one pink and black, conveyed a sharp, minimalist attitude in bonded leather. The reinterpretations of sweatshirts and track jackets, shown in sheer materials and shiny silk, upheld Krakoff’s position on the interplay of masculinity and femininity with a sport undercurrent. Things got murky with the overzealous layers: a sheer dress with a painted feather motif worn over a jarring black bra top, and a T-shirt done in sheer panels plunked on top of a silver painted python skirt. The mix needed more air to achieve lift-off.