“American prep meets magpie traveler,” informed Tory Burch, who, during a preview, described a woman who spices up her classic wardrobe with special items picked up along her journeys. That sentiment came across with savvy panache in Burch’s spring collection.
She updated several classic silhouettes with adornments, embroidery and striking motifs — a wheat theme was worked into prints, embellishments and even the look of the models’ plaited hair. Her artsy touches (heavy beading, raffia, fringe) could have easily swerved into hippie territory, but not here: The fringed crochet raffia coat with a guipure lace skirt had a casual elegance, as did the designer’s new take on tie-dye, hand-done by women artisans in Guinea as part of Burch’s foundation work. A languid skirt from the group, teamed with a simple white top, looked more Madison Avenue than music festival.
With a growing network of her own stores in which to experiment (and a group of big-money types eagerly waiting to see if and when she’ll go public), Burch is now playing with more luxe details. She demonstrated that throughout, particularly with the evening wear. An organza dress with a Fifties elegance and adorned with a gold honeycomb pattern enhanced the romantic feel of the collection.