Androgynous tailoring met antiquated charm in Vanessa Bruno’s collection, which blended masculine jackets with cotton eyelet dresses and drop-waist silk slips.


The French designer recently curated a selection of antiques and vintage clothes for a Paris Design Week event staged at the Saint-Ouen flea market, thus it’s no surprise that a Victorian influence ran through her show. There were high-collared blouses with dozens of little buttons and fitted jackets with hook-and-eye closures, some featuring laurel-leaf embroidery. Those cotton tea dresses — in barely there tones of nude, peach and buttercup — came in long, slim cuts that gave them a fresh appeal.

All the while, Bruno injected just enough cool-girl swagger to make the lineup relevant to the here and now.

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