“I’m really interested in the idea of a girl dressing like a boy, and a boy dressing like a girl,” Erdem Moralioglu said before his spring show. Androgyny is new for the designer, who typically tweaks the classically ladylike with floral motifs and saturated color.
He rejected the latter almost entirely for spring: Only two looks featured a hue other than black or white, automatically giving the collection a stark edge. Moralioglu focused on form, simplifying and sharpening the base silhouettes, which referenced school uniforms: crisp white shirts, wrap skirts, kilts, school blazers and sweatshirts, an item nearing fashion ubiquity. A few exits hewed too closely to Riccardo Tisci’s work at Givenchy.
More original and impressive was Moralioglu’s diaphanous workmanship of feathers, floral appliqués, lacework and embroidery. One shirt featured lace that had been ripped apart and embroidered over in words from Walt Whitman and Emily Dickinson poems and veiled in a layer of tulle. “So it’s like a little secret,” the designer explained.