Jonathan Saunders developed the trippy sport aesthetic he introduced for resort into a compelling vision for spring. Anchored in psychedelic colors and Seventies athletic gear, one might call the look slacker chic — a combination of craftiness, relaxed streetwear cool and offbeat beach babes. Saunders softened the bold acid palette of resort into warmer tones of burgundy, light brown, aqua blue, blush and orange, which brought to mind tacky retro interiors yet did not feel cheap. He chose expensive-looking fabrics — silky satin and organza — decorating with impressive floral embroideries and appliqués. Classic rockabilly shirts were recast in sheer organza with satin collars and colorful thread work. The early Eighties tracksuit was reimagined as streamlined satin jackets and languid shorts that snapped up the sides and rode low on the hips. Large-scale Hawaiian prints and rainbow dégradés appeared throughout.

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