Dark poetry and Patti Smith’s rocker flair are clear comfort zones for Ann Demeulemeester. This season she revisited them beautifully through an art nouveau lens.

Effectively picking up on the same theme as her spring men’s wear collection, the designer artfully draped and layered fabrics with striking pattern play. The latter came via a floral art nouveau motif that she used, for example, on a top and pair of fluid pants teamed with a cool black redingote coat. Demeulemeester played the visual across several textures — in dévoré for pants, flocked velvet for tailored jackets and as bold motifs on stockings. When all three elements made it into the same silhouette, in fiery red or with bold stripes, the soft aesthetic was overpowered. Such decorative statements were best when worked with restraint and subtlety.

However the oversize mesh hats — draping around the model’s heads like moody veils — added to the romantic feel.

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