It was good to see David Koma, whose first runway collection for Mugler will bow in Paris, bring a few new ideas to his namesake line. Koma, who rarely uses color effusively, showed that he can pull off a palette that stretches beyond black and white — although they were there, too.
He offered a pair of neat white city shorts with a yellow panel around one leg paired with a mannish white blazer, and a sporty ribbed cropped top in a look that was both disciplined and fresh.
Koma relaxed his usual angles and narrow silhouette, introducing a sinuous line in the spiral-cut skirts of dresses that circled the legs, increasing in length as they descended, occasionally dipping to new sub-knee lengths. Transparent mesh inserts gave the impression of floating panels of fabric in white-and-blue body-con dresses.
The final group of high-octane black cocktail dresses that had dense rows of colored crystals applied in geometric sections will be a hit with his red-carpet following.