With David Bowie on the soundtrack and Lurex metallic threads shot through the organza, Emilia Wickstead’s summer girl has a glam-rock, princessy edge. The designer moved away from last season’s darker outing and toward her more feminine fingerprint — but there were still plenty of new tricks in the lineup.
She played with transparency in the form of metallic organza, which helped grown-up shapes like a silver tailored dress with a shirt collar and a slit up the front to sound a more playful, effervescent note. The designer also dabbled in constrained volume with full-length shift dresses that ballooned through the body, to be caught in tucks at the side of the hem.
The pink, orange and yellow that have become Wickstead’s visual calling card were in the mix, too, as in an orange duster coat draped over a candy-pink, double-breasted blazer-dress, while a V-neck, egg-yolk yellow, long-sleeved dress in matelassé organza, saucily slit up the center, revealed matching shorts and a lot of thigh. It was a detail that may well be toned down for Wickstead’s genteel clientele.