Emilio de la Morena cited the “louche exuberance” and “unabashed sexuality” of Ibiza in the Eighties as his spring touchstone.
That flashy starting point worked better in some places than in others: A slipdress slashed at the thigh with a purple-green sequined skirt had a cool glamour. But a series of corseted metallic dresses — some of which looked uncomfortably tight — recalled the questionable side of Eighties style. The designer’s less-constricting silhouettes were stronger — as in a calf-length slipdress that shimmered in a dull gold, chainmail-like fabric.