London designers are mad for busy botanical prints this season, including Erdem Moralioglu, who’s as familiar with the contents of a greenhouse as he is with the best guipure lace Europe has to offer.
His ideas came together beautifully on the runway, flanked by tropical plants in the vacated, stripped-down Selfridges hotel.
British biologist and explorer Marianne North was a key reference, which explains the strict, Victorian silhouettes that gradually evaporated into a more sultry allure. Fabrics became more diaphanous and necklines dipped. “I wanted a lightness to the show,” Moralioglu said backstage.
The braided hair, gladiator sandals and chaste shapes brought to mind recent Valentino, a brand that has influenced runways in many fashion capitals. Yet Moralioglu has dibs on fragile femininity, and this collection was true to his aesthetic — and superbly executed.
Standouts included tiered gowns in broderie anglaise and plunging cocktail dresses in black organza flecked with fronds.