Jonathan Saunders turned out an approachable and romantic spring collection with a charmingly off-kilter air.
Showing in the British Museum’s Great Court, the designer sent out creations that looked handcrafted and played with volume, which gave a dolllike feel to some of the exits. A knee-length pouf skirt was done in orange lamé and worn with a neat white shirt sprinkled with vinyl cutouts of leaves. There were also looks that bloomed with mille-feuille-style organza flowers, as in a putty-colored top and black pencil skirt stitched with scores of the flowers, while chiffon leaves fluttered on a simple black evening dress.
Though some of the silhouettes were girlish, Saunders’ quirky color palette — sky blue, teal, russet brown and black — gave the lineup a subversive edge. As did the flat sandals and shiny, boyish ankle boots, the latter of which Saunders paired with a striking teal-and-black puffball gown, to sweetly rebellious effect.