From the psychedelic palette to the decorative folk-art touches, there was a strong Seventies flavor to the collection that designers Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos served up for spring.
They referenced the hippie-craft movement with macramé straps on dresses, paisley motifs and 3-D flowers that adorned almost every piece in the detail-saturated collection. One black organza handkerchief skirt and matching tank top was embroidered with abstract curlicues and further decorated with big, shiny, shattered Perspex paisley “commas.”
Homemade patchwork quilts were the inspiration for the pearlescent silk boxes laminated onto an iridescent nude organza coat to create a windowpane check that was further embellished with Perspex rosettes.
A group of color-blocked jersey dresses, cut through with violet or orange holographic sequin panels, saw the designers playing with asymmetry and draping, and touching on the disco era. The few trousers in the mix were gently flared below the knee.
Visually, there was a lot to take in here but, for the most part, eye fatigue was staved off by the simple silhouettes — trim bodices and neat A-line skirts in black denim made good canvases for all the ornamentation.