Tom Ford worked up an unapologetic homage to glam rock for spring — with the focus squarely on the glam. Models with Joan Jett-esque shags and kohl-rimmed eyes strode out on towering platform-soled sandals in a lineup of superlean, glitter-and-sequin-spangled designs.
According to his show notes, Ford mined his own designs from the late Nineties for inspiration — though some of the looks also were a nod to Hedi Slimane’s rocker take at Saint Laurent. And while the spray-on, kick flares and sequined tops were reminiscent of the velvet hip-huggers and satin shirts from Ford’s hit Gucci collections, there was a harder, more rebellious edge to this outing.
Among the high-octane designs was a long-sleeved black minidress sewn with chainmail-like bands of silver leather and a thigh-skimming dress that shimmered with gold sequins, with cutaway tulle panels at the waist.
Even when Ford turned down the volume, the looks were still provocative, as in a black ankle-length skirt, slashed to the thigh to expose sheer black stockings. Meanwhile, a finale of evening looks had a subversively seductive feel, inspired, Ford said, by Carlo Mollino’s photographs. A transparent black chiffon top was sewn with bondagelike black sequin bands, while black tuxedo pants were paired with a sheer mesh top, embroidered at the bodice with strategically placed metallic flowers.