Recent fashion decades are as popular as cappuccinos this Milan season. Not at Agnona, where Stefano Pilati referenced the gold patinas, mythical lotus blossoms and bandaging of ancient Egypt. “There’s no need to go retro if you refer to that,” he mused.

No need to put these luxurious clothes on a runway, either, because you wouldn’t be able to caress the lightweight double-face morning coats in Agnona’s Century Cashmere and appreciate the buttery softness.

While grounded in the classics, the collection was inventive, reflecting Pilati’s design-intensive approach. He incorporated spiral cuts into sleeves, and slashed short capes and skirts in bonded gabardine, yielding unusual volumes and portholes. These were among the more “editorial” looks styled on mannequins in Agnona’s pop-up boutique, climaxing with a trio of wet-look sequined dresses in Nefertiti colors.

What was on the racks was quieter: Suede dusters laser-cut with intricate patterns; featherweight knitwear with similarly minute perforations, and silk dresses and tops printed with stylized flowers.

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