The light feel of Angelos Bratis’ spring lineup was deceptive. Though these clothes captured a breezy vibe, their construction and detail were anything but. Backstage at Teatro Armani, where the show was held as part of Giorgio Armani’s initiative to support Milan’s emerging talent, Bratis cited Greek artist Yannis Moralis’ abstract mathematical approach as the inspiration, especially the way the artist “would limit himself to a canvas. I tried to do the same.”

Such control served the designer, who won Milan’s “Who Is on Next?” contest in 2011, well. Bratis transformed fabrics cut in rectangles, squares and semicircles into sophisticated looks, many with graphic intarsia in contrast hues, as in the languid navy caftan that opened the show. The designer’s bias-cut and draped gowns, meanwhile, nodded at the designer’s Hellenic heritage. Think Greek goddess, but in a contemporary way.

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