Nothing telegraphs summer music festivals — circa the late Sixties — like chocolate brown, fringed suede.

Ennio Capasa also added grommets and lacing to suede and jersey for a polished, if sometimes literal, take on a fecund period in music history, spliced with Costume National’s glory years in the Nineties.

It was a brisk and confident show, soundtracked by rock bands Capasa is convinced will hit the big time: We Are Shining and Kanoi. “Sophistication and experimentation,” he said backstage in front of a mood board pinned with photos of Anita Pallenberg and Marianne Faithfull.

The best looks were the sexiest: halter-neck dance dresses or strapless styles, decorated with a spray of fringe here, an off-kilter ruffle there. Handkerchief hems lightened the mood of black jersey, as did flashes of turquoise and purple, the latter being, according to Capasa, “the color of music.”

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