Energy is not an issue for Fausto Puglisi. He kicked off spring with a jolt, from the coolly lit runway and high-decibel music levels to the clash of geometric patterns, brights and the blingy surface details in his first few exits.
These elements have become signatures in the designer’s young career, and this season he continued to clarify the vernacular with clothes that played to the boldest side of Milan fashion. Citing “an obsession with Ancient Rome” as his key motif, Puglisi channeled the “Suburbia Gladiator,” a combo of terms that also made its way onto the back of a sweater. He worked the first part of the phrase via several silhouettes that veered bourgeois if not prim — a comfort zone. The latter, meanwhile, was evident in studded, flat-heeled Grecian sandals.
The designer’s lineup had a noticeably younger, tougher edge than in the past, evident especially in the distressed fabrics, as in the oversize moto jacket and belted shirtdress with large holes, as if ripped. The look captured the punkier side of glam rock, a trend of the season.
On the more feminine, varsity-girl end (i.e. another one of Puglisi’s preferred archetypes), there were bra tops over metallic geometric-patterned skirts, and a big sweater with a sun motif shown with slit miniskirt.
Throughout, Puglisi featured a graphic black-and-white bull’s eye motif — a target — such as on a pair of leggings under a skirt that was shown with a bejeweled crop top. If, unintentionally or otherwise, it rang a bell of a potential high-low collaboration, there are no doubt legions of fashion-y young women on a budget who’d love to get their hands on examples of the flamboyant, sexy style for which Puglisi has become known— if only they could afford it.
