Gabriele Colangelo usually likes to go fishing for inspiration in the art world. But this season, the designer skipped the literal references and worked from a more personal point of view, focusing on dynamic cuts to generate a sense of fluidity.

Avoiding the complications that made some of his past collections a little too tricky, Colangelo still managed to offer unexpected surprises inside the seemingly obvious. These included a 3-D cutout on the back of an otherwise simple, pretty long shirtdress cinched at the waist with a thin white belt. Laser techniques also gave movement to a group of off-white looks, including a vest-dress worn over a shirt and paired with a blazer, as well as an A-line coatdress cut with paper-like precision.

Colangelo played with various materials: Raffia blended into silk in a dress wrapped to create blue and white dégradé effects on the skin. Or copper, inserted between two layers of silk, one of them burnt, to generate blurry, mysterious shades on a long tunic. He also worked ponyskin, which he combined with soft Japanese denim, into a coat with fresh blue hues.