Breezy, bright and optimistic. For spring, Angela Missoni worked the trifecta with vibrant clothes that pulsed with positivity.
During a preview, the designer explained her decision to keep the collection — called “Catch the Wind!” — light. “Pre-collections are important, and so you do all the city-looks then,” she said. “I prefer to go full summer for this show.”
The clothes indeed evoked the spirit of the sunny season — languid, often exaggerated silhouettes in happy colors and some bold floral patterns — but these looks are not confined to vacation spots. Oversize shirts were tucked with deliberate carelessness into gypsy skirts that skimmed the floor. Simple dresses that mixed several prints had a playful charm, which added to the lineup’s insouciance.
Yet there was some impressive research and development behind all the airiness. Case in point: The trenchcoats. Missoni created structure without weight by bonding the house’s colorful mélange knits with tulle.
The house roots are in the Seventies, and Missoni’s shows usually have a vibe reflective of that history, a notion underscored here by the turbans that topped most exits. Yet in the midst of Milan’s current Seventies obsession, Missoni eschewed the overt and literal in favor of a more timeless take on summer pleasures.