Once again, Philipp Plein hosted more of an event than a fashion show, entertaining his enthusiastic throngs — some guests sat on the floor in front of the first row — with a series of captivating tricks. These included a live performance by a 40-piece orchestra and spectacular visual projections of an underwater atmosphere populated by jellyfish, coral and octopuses. But apart from a lobster embroidered on a minidress and some marine-striped knits, the clothes looked more Fifties rockabilly than aquatic.

In the mysterious scenario, models wore full-skirted dresses and flared skirts paired with leather biker jackets and vests. The feminine, lively attitude marked a fresh step from the overheated, sexy mood of Plein’s past collections. But the designer didn’t abandon his core fans, offering a wide range of evening looks, including column gowns all aglitter with sparkling sequins for a dose of disco glam.