For its spring show, Tod’s re-created a pristinely manicured Italian garden of box hedges, sculpted topiaries and chalky white pebbles, the kind of outdoor space that’s beautifully designed but a destination for relaxation. A similar point of view applied to Alessandra Facchinetti’s collection.
A crisp take on “sophisticated sport,” according to the press notes, the lineup featured tidy, tailored shapes in a fresh, pleasing palette of white, ivory, muted lavender and emerald green with a major focus on the house’s bread and butter, leather. It’s a material fundamental to Tod’s identity and thus crucial to reflect in the clothes, but there are challenges when it comes to ready-to-wear design, particularly in terms of weight and structure. Some of the collection was just too heavy and stiff; whether a technique worked depended on the garment. While expertly crafted, a patchwork wrap skirt was so thick it couldn’t move, but the same technique gave a classic bomber a modern, artisanal touch. The spiffiest, sportiest of the mix were paper-thin, perforated A-line tank dresses — easy in cut, advanced in technical execution and pretty with floral inlays.