“I’m always into women’s roles and the idea of the uniform,” said Greg Armas of his spring collection for Assembly New York. While Armas studied karate, ninjas and Amish culture, he cited the woman who is “extremely clever, intelligent, independent and, overall, discreet” as the starting point for his lineup, done in a minimalist palette of black and white natural linen and chambray.

There were no prints or embellishments in sight, save for a barely-there trim fashioned from karate belts and seen on shorts, pants and cropped jackets. But Armas still managed to put out a strong, stylish collection, creating visual interest by playing with layering and proportions, as in a cool pair of voluminous white culottes.